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Hail Damage: How to Tell If Your Austin Roof Was Actually Hit
Storm Damage· How-To Guide

Hail Damage: How to Tell If Your Austin Roof Was Actually Hit

Real hail damage shows up as random, round bruises with granule loss on shingles, matched by dents in soft metals like gutters, vents, and downspouts. Check the ground-level clues first, then the soft metals, then get a free inspection — never walk a roof after a storm.

Kind Roofing Team6 min readcedar-park, georgetown, round-rock, leander
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On this page· 7
  1. 01Start with what hail size means
  2. 02Ground-level clues you can check today
  3. 03What hail damage looks like on a shingle
  4. 04The test-square method
  5. 05Don't walk the roof yourself
  6. 06Why timing matters in Austin
  7. 07What to do if the roof was hit

The sirens went off, the hail bounced off the driveway, and now your phone is full of texts from neighbors and your mailbox is full of door hangers. Before you decide anything, figure out one thing: did your roof actually get hit?

Plenty of storms rattle windows and leave shingles untouched. Plenty of others leave damage that doesn't leak for two years. Here's how to tell the difference without climbing a ladder.

Start with what hail size means

Hail below about three-quarters of an inch usually bounces off architectural shingles without harm. At one inch — quarter-sized — asphalt shingles start to bruise. At one and a half inches and up, you can expect fractured mats, exposed fiberglass, and damage on nearly every slope facing the storm.

The National Weather Service publishes storm reports with hail sizes by location. Pull the report for your ZIP code and the date. If it says pea-sized, breathe easier. If it says golf-ball, keep reading.

Ground-level clues you can check today

Walk the property before you think about the roof.

  • Granules in the gutters and downspouts. A pile of black sand at the downspout outlet after a storm means shingles lost their protective layer somewhere.
  • Dents in soft metals. Gutters, downspouts, the metal cap on the chimney, roof vents, the fins on the AC condenser, the mailbox, the grill lid. Soft metal dents at a lower threshold than shingles. If your gutters are dimpled, the roof probably is too.
  • Splatter marks. Hail leaves clean, dark spots on oxidized surfaces — the top of the electric meter, the deck railing, the fence. Splatter marks fade in a few weeks, so photograph them now.
  • Damaged screens and siding. Torn window screens and cracked vinyl siding on the storm-facing side of the house point to wind-driven hail.
  • Stripped plants. Shredded hostas and bare tomato stems tell you the hail was big enough to matter.
  • Photograph all of it with your phone. The date stamp is your evidence.

    What hail damage looks like on a shingle

    Real hail hits are round, random, and soft to the touch. Press one and it feels like a bruise on an apple — the mat underneath is fractured even though the surface may look intact. The granules are knocked away in a circular pattern, and the exposed asphalt is shiny and black when fresh.

    What hail damage is not:

  • Blistering — small raised bumps with pits, evenly distributed, caused by heat and poor attic ventilation.
  • Granule loss in straight lines — usually foot traffic or a previous contractor's ladder.
  • Cracked shingles in a pattern — thermal splitting, or a manufacturing defect.
  • Nail pops — installation or decking movement, not hail.
  • Adjusters know these differences. So do we. Calling wear and tear "hail" gets claims denied and wastes everyone's time — which is one reason insurance claims get rejected in the first place.

    The test-square method

    Insurance adjusters mark a 10-foot by 10-foot square on each slope and count the hail hits inside it. The count threshold varies by carrier, but somewhere around eight hits per square on multiple slopes generally puts full replacement on the table. Fewer hits on one slope may mean a repair instead.

    We use the same method during a free inspection. Chalk squares, circled hits, a photo of each one. When the adjuster shows up, the squares are already marked and the numbers are already counted.

    Don't walk the roof yourself

    We mean it. After a storm the shingles are slick with loose granules, the decking may be soft, and the same wind that damaged the roof may have loosened the ladder. Every spring someone in the metro gets hurt doing what a roofer would have done for free.

    Why timing matters in Austin

    Two reasons. First, hail damage on a roof doesn't always leak right away — the bruised mat holds for a season, then the heat and UV cycle opens it up the following winter. By the time water is in the ceiling, you may be outside the filing window your policy allows.

    Second, big hail events across Cedar Park, Georgetown, Round Rock, and Leander generate thousands of claims at once. Carriers bring in out-of-state adjusters, and inspections get brief. A homeowner with a documented report from a local roofer is in a much better position than one with a hunch.

    What to do if the roof was hit

    1. Photograph the ground-level evidence the same day.

    2. Save the NWS storm report for your address.

    3. Schedule a free inspection — we'll give you a slope-by-slope photo report and an honest read on whether the damage clears a typical deductible.

    4. If it does, open the claim yourself, and ask that we be present for the adjuster's visit.

    5. If it doesn't, put the report in a drawer. If the next storm adds to it, you'll have a baseline.

    Kind Roofing inspects roofs across Williamson County and Hays County every spring. If you're in the after-the-storm crowd right now, reach out before you sign anything.

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